I caught up with the Dircy Sil in Helsinki and she told me about her music, a mixture of kizomba, semba, and reggaeton. We talked about her life, the challenges, and the inspirations. She gives her advice to young, up-and-coming artists in Angola, and the world over.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Er-KioN0vwA

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www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUOMoaU8jVU

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Saotomean Cocoa pod - soon to become chocolate. Photo by Inna Moody.

I’ve written before about Saotomean produce, such as the Pilolo Atomico, and Pepper & Vanilla but chocolate is the product Sao Tome & Principe is most famous for so today, I want to introduce you to the Corallo chocolate. For those who haven’t heard of Corallo, he’s is probably the best known man from São Tomé and Príncipe, surpassing presidents, and prime ministers.

The man is famous for producing excellent organic chocolate. And he has lived a life full of of adventures. He’s not ashamed to tell the story.

Not Many Export Success Stories

Sao Tomé does not have many export products. The main produce include sugar cane, coconut pulp (copra), bananas, breadfruit, plantains, cassava, and cornmeal – but none of this is exported.

And although efforts are being made to grow more crops for local consumption, large amounts of food still have to be imported, in some cases resulting in higher prices, than for example in Lisbon.

The only real success story is the chocolate.

The Corallo Chocolate Fame

Corallo’s chocolate is so good by some accounts, that it has been voted among the world’s best chocolate‘s by Portuguese experts.

The web is full of praise for the organic product. Just choosing a few, the famous Pastry Chef Kriss Harvey praises the deep flavors of red wine and tannins’. And Mercedes Sayagues from GlobalPost goes to the extent of saying that after tasting Corallo’s chocolate you’ll be unable to eat anything else – ‘earthy, crunchy, dusty’.

This isn’t all there is to it. There’s a long history to cacao production on the islands, some of which is detailed by two Canadian filmmakers, in an film called Extra Bitter: The Legacy of the Chocolate Islands.

The Corallo Documentary

But let’s skip all the fluff. Here’s the full monty on Corallo in four parts. Enjoy!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwzSO_M3q4k

www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQhLMPcHP_U

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wk34kcxNvs0

www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUTSm8FP0s4

How did you like the documentary? What do you think about the the Saotomean trade deficit? Let us know in the comments.

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Incredible people of Sao Tome. Photo by Zita Kamugira

I write by hand in the moleskine that won my love. The flight to Praia delayed over an hour. TAAG flight leaving Luanda with a stop in Sao Tome and Sal. Leave Sao Tome with a good impression.

I did not go to Principe. It would take more time. Next time.

In the future, with that taste – that may not happen.

I met amazing people in Sao Tome. In total, 25 or 26 tapes of 40 minutes of footage each. On each tape, amazing people. I talked with fishermen on a boat at sea next to Goat Island.

Women with children raised going to the classroom learning to read and write in Santa Luzia, a rural area of Sao Tome. The classes are in a classroom at an elementary school.

In the next room, children follow the course. Many of them are sons and daughters of women who learn to read and write. Talked to some. Took pictures.

Some mothers take their children to school. Breastfeeding during class. The babies sleep in rags lying on the floor at the feet of mothers. Some attend classes standing.

One had a son in her lap, the other tied behind their back and a third in the belly. The class has only women. I talked to some of them.

They are the daughters of Cape Verdeans. One of them, 30 years, only now learning the first letters. I wonder why not study before. She says that her parents did not want her to. They did not think important, to place the children in school. Now she has decided to study on their own.

I talked to a grandmother in her fifties . Her 7 year-old granddaughter attends class in the next room. When classes are over, they go home together.

We asked to see women in return. A walk of 500 meters uphill. Many are barefoot. They sing. First, the hymn of Sao Tome. Then, in Creole language, the national language. Their shrill voices in unison regret thrill. The melody is sad. But it is also joyful. I do not understand what they sing.

Those women who follow uphill barefoot children in her arms, back, drawn by the hands are always with a smile on their faces. For a moment we’re all happy. Along the way begin to emerge either house.

I see men sitting on porches, chatting in small groups.

With the trip to Sao, I completed visiting 13 countries in Africa since April last year. In all these countries, women are always impressive. They work at home, on the street, take care of their children, accept that their husbands have other women.

I asked to visit their grandmother. She studies in the living room until daylight disappear. A lamp helps to illuminate the environment. When it gets dark, she will prepare the dinner. The rest of the tasks is the next day.

There is enough power in Sao Tome. In the neighborhoods outside the center only their generators. Who has no generator is in the dark.

I hear stories of misuse of public money. The people living in poverty. I do not know if the path of misery. Hunger think no more. There are fish. There are breadfruit falling trees. There are banana. The STP seem to lead life with dignity. But everywhere complain about the lack of jobs, poor schools.

On the roads into the interior, we come across women and barefoot children carrying their lives in the heads.
Cans, bowls, boxes, pots.

I met amazing people.

I write at the TAAG flight between Sao Tome and Sal. I drink two bottles of red wine to help me (dis) organize ideas. I feel a pleasant numbness, a happiness almost potentiated by the combination of alcohol and altitude.

Maybe that’s why there are so many disconnections in this future post. I met amazing people.

Arlindo, who will have its story told in brief. Fishmongers who have learned to do more sophisticated dishes with fish scraps that were thrown away. An Italian who planted coffee in Zaire, Bolivia and is now chocolatier in Sao Tome.

Amazing people. Amazing people.

Perhaps the effect of African fevers that sooner or later affect the non-Africans. Soon we will leave, but the people will torment us. In these travels, I look less and less authority and more and more amazing the people who insist on tapping on our way.

It is not always easy to identify the people amazing. It takes training. It takes less. It takes less and less. And I need less and less.

– Carlos Alberto Jr.

Carlos Alberto Jr. is a journalist for TV Brasil, and in the past years has visited and written about 15 African countries. This story was first published in September 2009 in the Diary of Africa (Diario da Africa)

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Class with their OLPC computers

I first wrote about the One Laptop Per Child project in Sao Tomé this February.

A group of University of Illinois students brought OLPC computers to Sao Tomé in summer 2009, as part of their internship program.

Later, in October 2009, Beth Santos followed up with her own project, making sure laptops were used throughout the school.

Now, this June-July 2010 Beth Santos went back to Sao Tome for her second trip, trying get the project running. She has pledged to do that every year at least once, so to make sure  the project stays of track.

Read Beth’s *very* detailed diary of her project on her blog, follow the Facebook backlog, and see the videos of the kids, asking them how they like the project below.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJZ2aBtp5ho

If you’d like to participate in funding more laptops, get in touch with Beth through her blog.

– Kris Haamer

OLPC kids

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Rabbit Pufferfish, Lagocephalus Lagocephalus. Photo by O. Alvheim 2010.

Bob Drewes from the California Academy of Sciences reports on Dr. Tomio Iwamoto‘s findings in the Gulf of Guinea, documenting a strange dieoff of the Rabbit putterfish. A Norwegian research vessel, the Nansen, is conducting a scientific trawling expeditions in the area.

According to several staff of the Nansen, such die-offs have been seen before, especially off the coast of Gabon, south to northern Angola, but appear to have become somewhat regular since 2007, usually in March-May.

No explanation has yet been given.

The vessel monitors water salinity, current velocity and temperature at all transects trawled.

None of the Rabbit puffers they studied showed any signs of disease or physical trauma; however, about 4 miles offshore of the town of São Tomé, they came upon a current boundary lined with floating dead puffers.

Jens-Otto Krakstad and Dr. Iwamoto examining dead puffers. Photo by O. Alvheim 2010

In their report to the STP Fisheries, they consider the possibility that rapid changes in temperature/salinity could account for these die-offs, but so little is known of the oceanography of the two islands that a positive explanation is elusive.

Read more on the Island Biodiversity Race blog.

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Atlas of Sao Tome & Principe

The Atlas Of Sao Tome & Principe – A collection of maps, charts and other geographic information on the islands of Sao Tome and Principe and the Gulf of Guinea (West Africa) is now available in digital form.

During the past six months by a group of people passionate about geography, members or sympathizers of the Caué Association, Friends of Sao Tome & Principe in Barcelona, working to gather all cartographic materials available on those islands, to make a new site accessible for free and open for participation.

So What’s the Content?

The collection is structured in a simple classification of maps:

1. Location maps, and general topography,
2. Physical geography,
3. Geography of population,
4. Economic geography,
5. Urban and regional geography (maps of districts and cities),
6. Old maps,
7. Bibliography.

The basic for the maps is the National Atlas (published by the Office for Research and Education in 1983) that had an eminently educative function and, therefore, is very useful for those who want to get an essence of the geography the country – even today. Apart from that, more detailed cartographic materials were added from the web.

One of the highlights is Neco Brangança’s study of some of the most important Roca’s, as well as the antique maps found in the atlas. Through the study one can see the evolution of strategic importance of the islands had to West Africa.

The site’s cover image is a painting (oil and acrylic on canvas) of the young artist Olavo Amado, a member of the “school”  of Teia D’Arte, and represents an “Atlantic Africa”. Painted  upon my request.

Olavo wants to show the weight of the world to sustain for Africa or African people (the Atlantic), or as he said rightly “to sustain the African World.”

The colors represent a mix between the land and the roads of Sao Tome (of dirt, and sometimes mud) and the suffering and the survival efforts.

– Kris Haamer

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Since Kris has kindly invited me to write something on my experiences in Sao Tome, please allow me to mention just 7 of the things I loved from that beautiful country:

7 The Local Talent

Joao Carlos da Silva. Photo by Sergio

My admiration and personal tribute to the people currently devoted to the promotion of local produce, their own people and the art. I was taken aback by the passion and simplicity shown by Joao C Silva whilst serving a delicious, rich and wide menu at his stunning and wonderfully placed Roca Sao Joao … I real ‘trip in flavours around the country’. Equally impressed with the artistic talent and the ‘complex human simplicity’ of Rene Tavares, with whom I shared more than 1 beer ;). mostly honoured with the frequent company of another great artist, major person(ality) and, as fate had it, ‘pensao’ partner Mr Kwame Sousa, meu irmao.

6 Café & Cia

Café & Compania. Photo by Sergio

Incredibly good times experienced… very nice people met, in this sort of haven for Europeans and other foreigners desperately looking for a WI-FI and a cup of coffee at the right rhythm of their ‘leve-leve’ service. Many of my best memories have their origin or end in there.

5 The Weather

The Weather

Hot and moist for the most part but enjoyable. Living in London makes you go from wearing more layers than an onion to virtually rip your shirt off as soon as the thermometer reaches the 20ies and you are close to a patch of grass… But in STP I’ve experience a variety of amazing microclimates and mini local all-of-a-sudden storms. Monte Café and the Jardim Botanico being an absolute delightful for me.

4 The Fish

The Fish

…. Beautiful, fresh, rich, plentiful, tasty, abundant and in wide range ‘peixe’. As a vegetarian I would not last long in Africa, so I would never forget the fact that I was able to enjoy a different nicely cooked and extremely fresh fish course every single day of my stay in ST.

3 Kizomba

Kizomba

Most likely not originally from Sao Tome but carefully, beautifully and widely preserved and practiced in the Inland dancing scenes. About the sexiest dance I have ever witnessed … (would like to say ‘experienced’ as well, but that was a skill that escaped all my mastering efforts).

2 Fruta Pao

Fruta Pao

;) well, most fruits and vegetables in STP would do really, for their diversity, their freshness and incredible flavours… but the fruta pao won me over for being so useful, versatile, cheap and tasty. Qualities I share with it myself ;)

1 The People

The People

Mostly humble and incredibly welcoming. Even though sometimes I felt myself to be insultingly white sometimes and clueless (pure ignorance, I must admit) they were all incredibly welcoming and pleasant. The humbler, the better.

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"Grains of paradise" or "Guinea pepper" (Aframomum melegueta) at Roça São João dos Angolares. Photo by Inna Moody

I’ve just heard through the grapevine, Sao Tome & Principe is about the enter the European markets with peppers and vanilla.

The news is nothing short of a dream come true for a group of Santomean farmers, two of whom, António Pinto and Helena Bragança, say it’s worth believing in agriculture in Sao Tome.

Below reporting from local and international media, key points translated from Portuguese.

For the first time in the history of the agriculture in the islands, a new product entered the external market, a product that joins the famous Santomean chocolate.

Pela primeira na história da agricultura das ilhas, no âmbito da exportação entrou no mercado externo um novo produto que assim se junta ao famoso cacau são tomense.

Source: Artur Pinho, BBC Africa

The first shipment of 3 tons, composed on 1,2 tons of white peppers, and 1,8 tons of black peppers, produced for export, left the country on last Wednesday, with destination France. This is lot should already have been transported in 2009, however due to the requirements of the French market.

A primeira remessa de 3 toneladas, composta por 1,2 toneladas de pimenta branca e 1,8 toneladas de pimenta preta, produzida no país para exportação já terá deixado o país esta quarta-feira, com destino à França. Trata-se de um lote que deveria ser exportado em 2009 mas, devido às exigências do mercado francês.

Source: T. Andrade, O Parvo

These peppers are from last year, and go only now, because of exportation and certification procedures with the French Ministry of Agriculture.

“Esta pimenta é do ano passado e só vai agora, devido a demarches com a exportação e certificação e a autorização do Ministério da Agricultura francês”

Source: T. Andrade, O Parvo

António Pinto and Helena Bragança were two satisfied farmers. “It was worth it, and everybody who believed and took the bet, will be a rich farmer in Sao Tome”, assured António Pinto.

Helena Bragança added, that it was a “great fight, a lot of effort, and for me a great joy”.

António Pinto e Helena Bragança eram dois agricultores satisfeitos. “Valeu a pena e toda a gente que acreditou e apostou vai ser um agricultor rico em São Tomé” garantiu António Pinto.

[...]

A agricultora Helena Bragança também se mostrou satisfeita, considerando que “foi uma luta grande, muito esforço e para mim é uma grande alegria”.

Source: Artur Pinho, BBC Africa

Did you enjoy reading this story? Join our community on Facebook, and consider sponsoring SaoTomeBlog by buying advertizing.

– Kris Haamer

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Up in the Air. Photo by Rui Almeida

November 1975:  The final exodus of the Portuguese in Angola. A plane packed full of people and overloaded, approaches São Tomé and Principe across the Gulf of Guinea. Inside, the silent crowd, a young couple holding hands, pretending to sleep.

José, an agricultural engineer, expert on coffee plantations, worried about the future. Luisa, a teacher, this time not thinking of her students, only concerned with the child rafting, and beginning to show signs of wanting to be born.

The doctor in Luanda had advised her not to travel. The board had been informed there were no doctors. Only the hosts, their sympathy and their knowledge of first aid.

In the midst of thoughts, José felt the distance in his hand, a squeeze.

- Luisa? You okay?

- I think this will start … How long before Sao Tome?

- One hour or more. I know. Please, stay calm. - Rose. But one of the hostesses were attentive. Knew and felt what was happening. Motioned him to sit down and approached.

- I have been watching you. Stay calm. Let this chair recline more. Breathe slowly, as if preparing for sleep. It is less than an hour to a stop in Sao Tome, but I will confirm to the cabin. Be right back.

It took a few minutes to inform, smiling, winds had shortened the travel time and that within 45 minutes would be in the islands. The captain had already informed the airport and were already providing assistance to pregnant women.

I was born in full runway! Isabel, the host-midwife and my godmother of baptism, had a remarkable efficiency, so I was told, yes, because I at that time only knew as a kid to scream …

In Sao Tome it was amazing how people recently involved in the process of independence, which could explain some alienation, if not hostility, put so much love to that helpless family – say abandoned – in unknown lands.

The warmth and support were such that we were there! We continue to be Portuguese, but in everything else, we are St. Tomé! With much pride!

My mother has her students. My father his coffee. I, after studies in London, working in computer science that this country desperately needs.

But what I really like this sea is fabulous! Just seeing: You can not tell! …

Abraços!

Oceom (Oceans Diving)

With so much “excitement” to speak of S.Tomé he had forgotten to present me … And so:

When the embassy official asked the name my father gave the baby, he buckled his smile wider to say:

- Tomé! What else could it be?

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Hotel Miramar. Photo by Inna Moody

Manfred Galland is German. But he’s lived in Africa for almost 50 years, and first came to Sao Tomé over 30 years ago.

Manfred has been the director of the Miramar Hotel for 12 years, and previously led the Polana hotel in Maputo, Mozambique.

Standing inside his hotel, Manfred has no idea about the young man outside, devouring the hotel’s Internet connection.

Roca Sao Joao, led by João Carlos Silva. Photo by Joao Maximo

It’s the same story with electricity. But it’s not only electricity, that worries those who live in the capital…

Aires Fonseca is one of the many night guards who get no sleep during the night of the capital. After all his song is no more than a revolt against the status quo. Aires is there for another long night with open eyes …. especially attentive to the state of the country, and the mosquitoes that never leave him.

Health

On television, malaria is still a reality. The spraying campaigns and the new drugs are a warning against the disease that has most affected Sao Tome for decades, and has been deadly. Although the situation is under control, still some cases of malaria do appear, such as the daughter of Eclair. In the central hospital of Sao Tome, the scene is now more exciting, than it was a few years back.

Malaria prevention program. Photo by Isabel Julietta

These indicators no longer satisfy João Luís Batista, Professor of Public Health at the New University of Lisbon. In passing in the country, after having done his PhD thesis on malaria in Sao Tome, this researcher is nevertheless a warning.

Malaria is only one of the problems affecting today’s health care system in the country. Dr. Pascoal da Apresentação complains about the lack of equipment, and specialists Hospital Aires de Meneses, for example they lack a cardiologist.

University of Lusíada

At the University of Lusíada de São Tomé this is school year zero. For the first time the country has university education, which can help stop the exodus of young people from the archipelago, and strengthen the senior management of the country. For all these reasons, the dean Fernanda Pontífice believes this is a historic landmark.

During this year (2007 - ed) the University will teach 3 courses and about 200 students. The annual fee is 1000 Euros, in a country where the minimum wage is around 50 euros a month.

The road to Sao Joao de Angolares is bad. These 60 kilometers require a jeep, and a lot of patience. For an hour’s drive. But today, despite the holes, the road has asphalt.

Business

Fernando Mendes with the kids. Photo by João Máximo

Fernando Mendes is already more Santoméan than Portuguese. He emigrated to the islands when 16 and today he’s almost 80 years old. He has no desire to leave São João dos Angolares.

Fernando Mendes is a businessman, he has gardens and livestock. He was here during the stage of colonialism, the one-party rule, until the present day democracy. In politics he does not interfere, but praises the presidential portraits of Eanes and Soares he has in his room.

Even today, Fernando Mendes is well informed on Portugal. Even the weather he knows by heart… What he doesn’t know if he’ll one day return.

Not far from the center of São João dos Angolares is the office of the only Health NGO outside the capital.

Anantole Txenko Niki is the Head of the Ami in Sao Tome. The Ukrainian doctor has been on the islands for 6 years. Public health is something that over time come to the voice of Olivia Paiva, a nurse for 6 months on the ground. São João dos Angolares brings back her childhood in Lisbon. They have at least calm ocean, a short-sleeve weather and lush vegetation.

Joao Carlos da Silva. Photo by Robert Grant

João Carlos Silva, a cultural agitator in Sao Tome, the same man know from Roça Com Os Tachos (Plantation With The Pots) television series, spends much of his time in São João dos Angolares. These days, he does not hide a restlessness of soul when it comes to the future. The country needs before anything, and above all, an introspection.

The Main Gas Station. Photo by Armando França

The Fixation On Oil

In the jeep’s radio returning to the capital, oil features often in the news. Already for a few years there’s this permanent anxiety. Although the country has already received $ 50 millions as a bonus for signing the concession agreements, the Prime Minister ensures that the country will still have to wait at least another 3 years (meaning today, 2010 - ed).

The population no longer appears to believe in the oil, and the benefits they may get. In all the conversations, the tone is almost always the same.

Final Thoughts

I remember the words of Agostinho. I remember Claudio Corallo. I remember Manfred. I remember Helio. And I remember especially the most recent conversation, with João Carlos Silva.

The Prime Minister understands well the feeling of living in a country close to oil, and the criticisms the government receives.

In any case, this country that in 2003 imported 650 barrels of oil a day may, with estimates of the IMF, produce 10 years later, 30 thousand barrels per day. The calculations of the IMF also say that these islands where over one half the population are still living below the poverty line, are likely to receive 400 million dollars by 2015.

True or not, what is certain is that after the sugar cane, and cocoa, there is a a new word, still weird-soundng, which has become part of the vocabulary of Sao Tome and Prince.

João Morais is a Portuguese journalist since 1989, with 15 years of experience as a radio reporter, now working as an Editor for TVI Television. This story was first published on Jan 19, 2007 on TSF – Radio. For the Portuguese radio version listen here.

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Banana Beach on Principe. Photo by Ana Rainho

São Tomé & Príncipe is divided into 7 administrative districts, six on São Tomé, and one on Principe. This post gives a geographical overview of the stories we’ve already covered – and those still missing.

The six regions of Sao Tome are Água Grande, Cantagalo, Caué, Lembá, Lobata, and Mé-Zóchi. The single region on Principe is called Pagué.

Hold on, and we’ll take you on a round-trip around the 7 seven regions, on the two islands.

1 – Água Grande, the Capital District

Sao Tome Capital. Photo by Maria Cartas

This is the region around the capital of São Tomé & Príncipe, São Tomé including the city itself.

Most recently, Richar Heller wrote about the highschool Liceo Nacional.

A week before that, an overview of the Santomean air ban, and the poor state of the air strip in the capital, written by yours truly, was very popular.

Joao Morais wrote about the life of a taxi driver in the capital, in his 3-part series on living leve-leve on a dollar per day.

One of the first posts of the blog, was a listing of the restaurants in the capital, and we also mentioned the infamous Pilolo Atomico at Café & Compania.

Carlos Alberto Jr. wrote about his adventures with the fishermen on Gamboa beach, while yours truly said  Praia Lagarto was not the best choice.

2 – Cantagalo, the Eastern District

Boca do Inferno. Photo by Maria Cartas

This is the district down the road from the capital. The Roca Agua Izé plantation is beautiful for photography, sadly inhabited by squatters. Our own Jose Santos wrote about the Roca Agua Ize plantation.

There’s  also the Club Santana Resort nearby, with a French restaurant and bungalows. Close to Santana there’s the Cascada Blublu waterfall and a village by the same name. The most famous sight in the district is the Boca do Inferno.

3 – Lobata, the Northern District

View from the Farol Lagoa Azul. Photo by Inna Moody.

This district is on the road north. The capital of the Lobata region (the northern side of the island) is Guadalupe. Out on the sea there’s a small islet called the Ilhéu das Cabras (Island of the Goats).

We listed some of the Northern beaches, including the famous Lagoa Azul.

Notice the Baobab trees in the distance.

4 – Lembá, the Western District

Neves beach by José Augusto

The capital of the Lembá district is Neves. This is where you arrive on the second day if you are doing the Pico Sao Tome to Neves walk. There is a petrol terminal and the Rosema beer brewery.

We’ve absolutely no coverage from the Lemba district so far. If you want to write about this part of the islands, you’re most welcome.

5 – Caué, the Deep South

Cão Grande. Photo by Isaac Afonso

The capital of the Caué district is Sao Joao dos Angolares, which is where the famous Roca Sao Joao is located.

Richard Heller wrote about the Carnival in Sao Joao de Angolares nearby.

Your truly listed several beaches in the south, including Praia Jale and Praia Xixi.

We also wrote about the OLPC Project at the Sao Joao school, run by the fabulous Beth Santos.

Caué holds one of the best known sights of the islands, the Cao Grande or Big Dog. This is a huge phallic-looking rock formation that sticks out of the rain-forest 800 meters. We’ve used the rock as a symbol of the islands on our Facebook page.

6 – Mé-Zóchi, the Interior District

Sao Nicolau Cascada (waterfall). Photo by Inna Moody

The capital of the Mé-Zóchi region is Trindade. Your truly gave a short oveview of the Obo National Park. Close to the city there’s the Cascada Sao Nicolao waterfall.

Towards the interior there’s Bom Suggeso. Most of the trails leave from Bom Sucesso, and you can easily get here on foot from the Boa Vista inn, which sits on Monte Café.

One of the  walks from Bom Sucesso is to reach Lagoa Amelia. This is a strange volcanic crater deep in the forest of the Obo National Park. On the way back , there’s the Bom Sucesso botanical garden. And a collection of more than 100 different orchids that grow on São Tome

There’s a two day walk from Bom Successo climb to Monte Pico, and descend to Neves. If no clouds, spectacular view of the island before the descent to Neves in the north part of the island. Michael Stein has written a wonderful account of the experience.

7 – Pagué, on Principe

Sprout on Praia Banana beach on Principe. Photo by Ana Rainho

So you’re thinking where’s number seven, right? That’s right, there is no number 7 – that’s because we want to challenge You to write us about Principe, and the Pagué region.

The sprout in the image symbolizes opportunity!

We know there’s a number of interesting stories on Principe, from the incredible newfound biodiversity and unknown species, to the infamous expedition made by Albert Einstein’s friend Eddington in 1919, to many newer stories we’ve not even heard about.

So get writing, and drop us a line!

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Kids. Photo by Richard Heller

The Liceo Nacional, the main high school of São Tomé. It is on the Marginal on the east side of town, facing the water.

The main Liceo building was built by the Portuguese in 1969. It is pink and looks pretty, but it is also concrete and badly ventilated.

Temperatures in the classrooms – often with 60 or more pupils in them – regularly reach over 100 degrees F (38 degrees C is far less expressive) and on the day I visited two teachers had fainted and been forced to go home.

The Liceo has over 6000 pupils, who often have to be taught in two shifts or even three. Competition for places is intense but so too, sadly, is the drop-out rate, evidenced by the number of school age children who are street vendors.

There are fees, and although these sound small to foreigners they bite hard into the budgets of poor families, especially when they have to add books, stationery and the cost of the simple but smart uniform.

Children under tree. Photo by Richard Heller

If pupils drop out, so too do teachers. Salaries are low (and occasionally not paid), stress is high. Tertiary education is very limited and to gain a teaching qualification Santomeans have to go abroad. Not surprisingly, many do not return.

As elsewhere in the country, the Liceo has many gifts or projects from overseas donors and some are half-finished or disused. The US navy presented a complete gymnasium – it was being used as a store room.

The pupils get plenty of exercise in their extensive grounds: on a short visit I saw four soccer or netball games in progress. One soccer game took me back to my childhood: they were playing with a tennis ball. That version encourages very fast players with great ball control.

It made me sad that the country currently plays no international football (FIFA threw them out because the national team did not have enough money to play away matches).

I visited a few classes but it was hard to judge the quality of the teaching, partly because I didn’t speak Portuguese and more importantly, because the pupils were excited by the foreign visitor. I did see pupils doing homework in corridors and in the grounds, which suggested commitment (and a lack of suitable space at home.)

The Liceo is extremely strong in art and design, and rightly proud of the pupils’ brightly coloured murals and their outdoor furniture. (The whole country seemed highly gifted artistically: public buildings and places are regularly adorned with murals or statues, private buildings, even shacks, are handsomely decorated, and local furniture and household goods are very well made).

I was told that the pupils do most of the maintenance of the school facilities and equipment themselves.

Photo by Richard Heller

The Liceo is achieving against steep odds. It is the main hope of a high school education in a poor country where nearly the population is under 15.

Its hardest task (I was told) is to persuade many pupils to finish their education when prospects of further education or a worthwhile job seem very remote.

The Liceo would appreciate more contacts from overseas, including partnerships with other schools.

I cannot give an email address – so can only suggest writing to the Principal, Liceo Nacional, Avenida Marginal 12 Julho, São Tomé, São Tomé e Príncipe.

(See this website or phone up the school: + 239 2222184- editor).

Richard Heller is an Oxford graduated British author, journalist, speechwriter, ghostwriter, editor. His novel A Tale Of Ten Wickets is available on Amazon.

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Chocolatier Claudio Corallo. Photo by Tiago Cruz

Cocoa is the largest export of Sao Tome & Principe. An ancient, and unique brand of Cocoa plants survives on the fields of Claudio Corallo, and local producer of ecological chocolate. These plants is what Corallo was after, when he first came to Sao Tome over 30 years ago.

An Italian by nationality, an agriculturist by trade, the man discovered a unique and ancient variety of cocoa on the islands. Brought back from South America on the other side of the ocean back in the 1800s.

This cocoa, flavored with history, is what many call the world’s best.

After 13 years of producing coffee and cocoa in Sao Tome, Claudio Corallo acknowledges that he must have been crazy to invest in a country without conditions and infrastructure.

Lost Years

Today, even the Prime Minister, Tomé Vera Cruz (as of 2007, current PM is Rafael Branco – ed), admits that Sao Tome lost these 30 years after the independence.

This year the PM believes Sao Tome will have extra help from the International Monetary Fund, with a debt cancelation amounting to $380 millions.

When the Prime Minister says that we must start from scratch, he refers for example to the energy issue. Both the capital, and the country,  often have to endure power cuts – the lack of electricity is a constant daily problem. At night Energy Officials in their Jeep try to stretch the little energy that exists

Now sitting in the Jeep, I’m reminded of Helio, the unemployed painter in the neighborhood of Madrede

Hotel Miramar

us, with whom I’d talked days earlier.

What’s Your Dream?

By 11 at night, the city is dark and silent. The avenues and the marginal sleep early, and only rare figures break the night. Along the coastal road and the Hotel Miramar, the main hotel in the city, in the dark of the night, a strange blue light glows, someone is sitting on a low wall. A single light in the darkness.

The strange light of the marginal is the notebook of Mário, a young man who hangs out on the wireless Wi-Fi network from the hotel, travelling for hours to other worlds on the net.

Mário tells me afterwards, that his mother is an engineer at United Nations, and that’s the only way she managed to buy hm the laptop. Now his dream is going to college in Portugal.

(Continues)

João Morais is a Portuguese journalist since 1989, with 15 years of experience as a radio reporter, now working as an Editor for TVI Television. This story was first published on Jan 19, 2007 on TSF – Radio. For the Portuguese radio version listen here.

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São Tomé International Airport. Photo by Inna Moody

Apparently, the airport in São Tomé is in danger of being shut down, because of a impeding ban by the International Civil Aviation Organization, following an inspection in January.

Companies flying the Santomean flag were previously banned from flying into European airspace, for lax safety measures. According to Tela Non, the islands will have to implement fundamental improvements involving financial investment in civil aviation sector in order to get out of the blacklist.

The country is heavily dependent on the Portuguese air company TAP for flights to Europe. Last December TAP threatened to cancel all flights to the archipelago unless the runway was repaired, as reported by Afrol.

The Prime Minister, Rafael Branco, said this on a press conference:

It’s an issue we have to resolve rapidly. Very rapidly even, according to the report. But to have two fire trucks at the airport, we need something like two million dollars (almost 1.5 million euros) and we don’t have that money.

More Coverage on AFP, MacauHub, and on Tela Non here and here.

Shipping Ban?

At least one post in the local forums indicates, that air travel is not the only problem – the port could also be in danger, because of being blacklisted by the International Maritime Organization for breach of rules relating to port security, established in the ISPS Code – International Ship and Port Facilities Security Code or the International Code for the protection of ships and port facilities.

The picture is more dramatic. We run the risk that the our only port and one airport prevented from receiving certain vessels and aircraft. It is time to ask what the leadership of this country wants for his people.

Portanto, o cenário é mais dramático. Corremos o risco de ver os nosso único porto e único aeroporto impedidos de receberem certos navios e aeronaves. É altura de perguntar o que é que a liderança deste país quer para o seu povo.

Source: Mé-Chinhô on Sao Tome Yahoo Group

Should these bans be enacted, Sao Tome & Principe could be left without European flights, and international ships. Unfortunately this is no April Fools joke.

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Téla nón is a high-profile online newspaper in São Tomé & Príncipe, most popular in the diaspora

We’ve previously listed blogs covering Sao Tome & Principe. As the Santomean blogosphere is tiny, one might say non-existent, most of the discussion goes on around stories produced by newspapers. So today we give you a list of all the Santomean newspapers that are available online – enjoy!

Obviously, these newspapers are in Portuguese, so you might want to use Google Translate. Some of the sites, like Jornal Tropical, have been black-listed by Google, so if your browsers gives you a big red warning – just press ‘ignore’.

Lets start with the National newspapers.

• Jornal de Sao Tome e Principe
• Jornal Tropical
• Vitrina
• Tela Non

International news agencies, and news sources.

• Afrik
• All Africa
• Ici Cemac
• Index Mundi
• Noiticias Lusofonas
• One World
• Topix
• Jeune Afrique
• APA
• Reuters

If you start a blog about Sao Tome & Principe, find a news source we haven’t listed, or write an article for your local paper – let us know here.

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Roça Água Izé. Photo by José Santos

We were heading South of São Tomé island to see the sea turtles that visit Jalé Beach each year. Água Izé is just on the way, by the EN2 (National Road 2) and I was curious about the very plantation, where commercial cocoa production first started. They say it’s one of the biggest…

São Tomé Road South. Photo by Inna Moody

We parked the jeep close to what seemed to be some old factories, I couldn’t tell if they still functioned.

Bags of Cocoa at Roça Água Izé. Photo by Consulate of São Tomé & Principe in Marseille

All was strangely quiet. I wanted to talk with some locals. To have an understanding of the what was going on in the village – yes, that’s what some of the old plantations became, villages.

We walked around a little bit until we found a young boy, about 15 or 16 years old, passing by.

I approached him and asked if he could show us around, he reluctantly accepted to do it, I think just to be polite as santomeans usually are. His name was Lúcio but people called him “Musculino” – he was very slim  so I assumed someone put him that nickname meaning he had small muscles…

He took us to some nearby cocoa plantations that are nowadays owned by private companies.

Woman in a Window at Roça Água Izé. Photo by Isaac Afonso

As we walked up the brown roads, ladies would beg us for “a candy for the children” which was something not that common in other parts of the island.

People here looked different, no joy on their faces. As I heard them talking to each other, I could understand they spoke cape-verdean creole (many people from Cape-Verd were contracted(?) in the XIX century to work in the plantations) not the most common forro, the dominant dialect.

Gradually Musculino felt more comfortable and volunteered to show us the famous hospital of the plantation that, I learned after, dating from 1928.

Our guide Musculino. Photo by José Santos

Though, he wasn’t comfortable to walk around with us half-naked so he asked for a few minutes to run home and dress up properly.

When Musculino was ready, we went up the hill. It was a steep climb, I feared for my fragile rented Suziki Vitara.

Huts on the Lagoon at Agua Izé. Photo by Inna Moody

When we got there, boy, what a wondrous feeling. A mix of emotions froze my body, they can’t really be translated into words.

As I faced this majestic colonial building, my mind was transported into other times. Staring at its lordliness, I could imagine how powerful one would have felt being in charge of that territory, managing it, making it work.

For a moment I was João Maria de Sousa e Almeida running all that, finding workers, building railways, running a profitable business for the Portuguese crown as a proper nobleman.

Then suddenly, I was a slave being forced to work those lands.Feeling the pain of having been taken away from my home town where I was a nobleman myself. I had been traded like an animal and now had to learn the language of those who I hated.

Like myself, others where being brought from many African nations to work here and make someone else prosper with our sweat and tears.

Back to the present. The old hospital looks terrible these days. People are splitting up its huge rooms to make tiny “apartments” out of them. No roof, the shingles seem to have been stolen. Everything dirty and smelly. It’s a sad view.

In the end I asked myself: wasn’t it better when it all worked ?

But how could it be better if it all was at the expenses of slavery and disrespect for the human race ?

Well, that brutality fed all those people, things worked up to the point of having the biggest production in the World.

Yeah, right, but people were forced to do it against their will.. I’m sure the surrounding landscape was much more beautiful those days… but now people are at least free; aren’t they?

José Santos is a Portuguese traveler and software developer. He visited São Tomé and Príncipe, including the Roça Água Ize plantation, in January 2009.

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Aerial View of São Tomé. Photo by Inna Moody

São Tomé, like the calm sea, rolling softly on the beach of Ana Chaves Bay, remains quiet and almost frozen in time. As if we had retreated 30 years. Or maybe more.

Marks of the past are everywhere. The streets are wide and without traffic. And the low houses of colonial origin, show, in many cases, the air of abandonment.

Here in this paradise, the second smallest country in Africa, with about 150 thousand islanders, the past is still present.

Yellow taxis and colonial buildings. Photo by Marko Laakkonen

The Taxi Driver

The past can be a taxi, used for more than 3 decades, dragging around the capital.

Cruz is 30 years old, and the taxi that makes his living, is older than the man.

In São Tomé, the price of gasoline is always very high. It’s almost as expensive as in Europe – a luxury for a country where the minimum wage evaporates, because you earn just some 50 Euros per month.

While Cruz is driving between the busy swarm of yellow-green taxis, he’s telling me that it’s not only gasoline that makes him tighten his belt every month. Apart from fruit, vegetables and fish, everything is expensive – at least for the 4 mouths Cruz needs to feed at home.

On the market, inflation seems to feel sorry for the vendors. Cruz confesses later, that he can only fool his fate of poverty, because he works a double shift.

The Painter

His is a life sleeping in a hurry, quite different from the one Hélio Quaresma leads. An unemployed painter, who works as a cab driver when he’s got gasoline. Hélio has been unemployed for 1 year. Today his whole future seems to be in shades of gray. Hélio has no idea with what money he will wake up tomorrow. In these complicated days, it’s his brother that often helps.

Ilhéu das Rolas Resort. Photo by Sandra Basílio

The Hotelier

30 years old, and lucky to work at a hotel on the Ilhéu das Rolas island on the equator, Augustinho earns about 200 Euros per month. Money that has to help fulfill his dream.

The dream is merely a balcony – one day it will be the best room in his small wooden house. After 8 years of work, and travelling to Portugal and Senegal, where he received training in hotel management.

On days off Augustinho dedicates his time to his family of wife and daughter, and his friends. Sunday in Sao Tome is like this: quiet and easy (leve-leve as is the saying), with all the time in the world for resting, for the friends, and music. A good day to meet Santa Margarida.

The Plantation Worker

The plantation of Santa Margarida is a few kilometers from the capital. And from what they say, it’s managed by the President, Fradique de Menezes. It is here that Leite Eugénio, a 30 year-old plantation worker lives, in a Roca in the countryside, where they used to put the contractors during the colonial era.

There’ no bathroom. Water and light are rationed. In the world of statistics, Leite Eugénio is one of those, that lives, or rather survives, with less than $ 1 per day. The table at his house, and the stomachs of his family know well –  what it’s like to have 20 euros for 4 people.

(Continues)

João Morais is a Portuguese journalist since 1989, with 15 years of experience as a radio reporter, now working as an Editor for TVI Television. This story was first published on Jan 19, 2007 on TSF – Radio. For the Portuguese radio version listen here.

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6 Guys Named Moe giving a show during Carnival in São João dos Angolares. Photo by Richard Heller

This is a carnival troupe performing on Mardi Gras in the town of São João dos Angolares. I had caught their act the night before, in the pink cultural centre of São Tomé.

A power cut caused a delay, and I had tried to chat to them in French while we waited for the lights to be restored.

What with working in a second or third language and frequent interruptions by fans and stage managers I never succeeded in establishing their name.

It sounded like Mogambo, but that’s the name of an overblown Fifties movie with Clark Gable and Ava Gardner, so I decided to call them Six Guys Named Moe. More accurately, it should have been Three Guys and Three Screaming Drag Queens Named Moe.

Their act was the same in both places, with no apparent change between the sophisticates of the capital and the out-of-towners. In the cultural centre they had a stage to work from but in São João dos Angolares they stood and delivered in a small open space between shacks.

The São João crowd was packed, but they all courteously made space for the foreigner with the camera, and urged me to take pictures. In truth, the act was not terribly photogenic.

In both places it consisted of a long dialogue, I think in Creole, between a man and a woman, played with maximum falsetto drama by one of the Screaming Drag Moes. There were short spells of dialogue and then a somewhat monotonous guitar riff, with percussion.

São João dos Angolares. Photo by Hans Kleijn

In both places it drew a lot of laughs, and I could tell that some of the passages were distinctly risqué. I imagine too that the script was an old favourite. In neither place was there any charge to view the performance or any collection.

Were the Six Guys on some sort of grant, keeping alive a venerated entertainment as an alternative to the endless TV soap operas and football matches?

I took in about half an hour of the act but there was no sign of any change in the basic plot, still less an ending. I slipped away and walked back to the Roça São João. From about a mile away I could still hear the screaming drag queen.

Richard Heller is an Oxford graduated British author, journalist, speechwriter, ghostwriter, editor. His novel A Tale Of Ten Wickets is available on Amazon.

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Girls carrying washing basins with clothes, on their way home. Photo by Carlos Alberto Jr.

The scene is impressive. Hundreds of women washing their clothes in a river. On a road to one of the Roças (plantations) of São Tomé.

The river crosses the island, and then flows into the Atlantic. Clothes are hanging on the rocks, and on the bare soil.

When done, the women, and children, mostly girls, with basins on their heads, take the clothes back home.

Women Washing Clothes in a River. Photo by Carlos Alberto Jr.

A ‘Poor’ Country

São Tomé and Principe is a poor country.

One literacy program for adults, a 2-year course created by the Brazilian government, in partnership with São Tomé, graduates 15 thousand pupils.

Inflation in 2009 was 19%. Dobra, the currency, is worth almost nothing. To buy one dollar, you need 16 thousand Dobras. A loaf of bread costs five thousand Dobras.

Money exchange is done at banks, and on the street. In the city center, men rub their thumbs to signal cash exchange, when they sight a visitor.

The roads are bad, bumpy. Any trip to the interior takes a long time. In a village, when the car slows down, children and adolescents, reach out and ask for candy.

Along the way there are hundreds of these shouts: “sweets, sweets, sweets.” When we say we don’t have any candy, they ask for a notebook, a book, a pencil, a pen, a ball, a folder. The requests are usually preceded by the word ‘white’ pronounced in several ways: ‘branco, blanco, banco, brranco’ (as if they had a French accent).

Unemployment is high. As elsewhere in Africa, there are many street vendors. About 80% of the budget of São Tomé and Principe comes from international aid.

The Politics

The election timetable is almost annual. Legislative elections are planned for 2010. Presidential elections for 2011.

Each election, the country has to pass the hat among the international community, asking who can organize elections. This puts pressure on the country to review its system, and hold coinciding elections during the same year.

It seems there is much oil in the territorial waters of São Tomé, but the population has no details. They don’t know the size of reserves, or how the process is being conducted.

The Angolan Connection

Angola and Nigeria vie geopolitical influence on São Tomé. Sonangol, Angola’s oil company, bought 35% of the National Oil Company of São Tomé National Fuel and Oil Company (Empresa Nacional de Combustíveis e Óleo – ENCO).

They say it is forbidden to film and photograph the government palace.

Well, here it is.

The National Palace. Photo by Carlos Alberto Jr.

I may still get caught at the airport, accused of taking pictures of the Palace.

In Angola there are also these things. It is forbidden to take photos of the Government Palace, the National Bank of Angola, the ministries.

They say that South Africans went to Angola as tourists, took pictures, and then bombarded the city. Luanda was never bombed. They’ve created a myth, and it lives on. It’s a tiring myth.

The Angolan government is building a huge embassy in São Tomé. Several floors, facing the sea. A Portuguese businessman, told me that senior figures of the Angolan government are buying bars, restaurants and building hotels in Sao Tome.

The Portuguese businessman: the Angolan asked me the price. I said it was 3.5 million euros. He asked me how much was the price in dollars. Angolans think only in dollars. His wife liked the place. It’s even pretty. It cost me about 600 thousand euros to build. It’s gonna make me some good money.

Yeah.

Some Statistics

• About 160 thousand people live in São Tomé and Principe. The GDP is approximately U.S. $ 197 million and will decrease by 4.2% in 2009 because of the international crisis. The GDP is as follows: agriculture (16%), industry (14%) and services (69.9%).
• The country imports all its consumption. The trade balance shows a deficit imported U.S. $ 88 million and exported U.S. $ 8 million last year.
• The country was once world’s largest producer of cocoa. Now there’s lack of investment in research and production improvement in the industry. Exports of cocoa today is U.S. $ 3 million.
• Life expectancy at birth in São Tomé is 68 years. Every woman has on average 5.3 children. 73% of the country is Catholic.
• Outside of the capital São Tomé, there is almost no lighting. Lamps and candles light the night for those who have no money. Small generators guarantee the wealthier a little light and a fan or air conditioning for the islanders who live in the middle of the equator.
• In the ranking of corruption prepared by Transparency International, São Tomé e Principe peaked at 121 in a total of 180 countries.

Carlos Alberto Jr. is a journalist for TV Brasil, and in the past years has visited and written about 15 African countries. This story was first published in September 2009 in the Diary of Africa (Diario da Africa).

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Barack and Michelle Obama, and President of Sao Tome e Principe, Fradique de Menezes, at the Metropolitan Museum. Photo by U.S. Department of State

Fradique de Menezes, the President of Sao Tome e Principe,  has announced by decree that next Santomean municipal elections will take place on the 25th of July, followed by Parliamentary elections on the 1st of August. The announcement was released on radio and television late Wednesday night.

Here’s a list of coverage (in Portuguese) by various news sources reporting on the upcoming legislative elections. No English-language news source apart from SaoTomeBlog is yet to announce the news.

• Visão Online
• RFI
• OJE
• Expresso
• Africanidade
• Téla Nón
• Jornal Transparencia
• Jornal Visao de Sabado
• O Parvo
• Cacau Dourado

Update: You may now also access the news in English on Afrol.

Legislative elections were originally planned for February, then April, but were subsequently indefinitely postponed, until the announcement yesterday, March 17th.

For political background, here’s a Wikipedia article on Santomean politics. Santomean parties include ADI and MLSTP/PSD. The current Prime Minister is Joaquim Rafael Branco.

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Canal Santola

Canal Santola is a popular hub for information on Sao Tome e Principe. The site relies heavily on Lusophone music for it’s popularity. One can watch videos of African music, including latest Zouk, Kizomba, and Tarraxinha tracks. Catch news updates and links of the Santomean world. Or read up about the history and culture of the country.

We called up the the founder Dely Amorim to ask about his site, and how it got started. Below is the story in his own words (translated to English).

Lack of Information

Canal Santola was started in 2005. I was looking for music and information on the Internet. But everything I found was sites with the same information. They almost seemed to be copies of each other. None of the sites had music from Sao Tome e Principe. I became tired and decided to create something different that would have all the information that anyone would want to know about Sao Tome.

Birth & Growing Popularity

The first version I launched in 2005 and received almost 350 thousand visits. The second version in 2008 received in less than 9 months one million visits. It was very controversial and violated copyright. After many complaints Portuguese police closed down the site. I was processed and had to pay a fine of 1500 Euros for any damages and losses as they called it. Canal Santola remained closed for more than one year.

Future

Now this is the third version of the site launched in January 2010 and now we’ll see what happens. The story continues…

Thanks Dely and Canal Santola. Today we featured the first in a series of Santomean websites. You can expect more in the future.

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Praia das Conchas. Photo by José Augusto

As a country of tropical islands, Sao Tome e Principe is pretty much surrounded by beaches. On the island of Sao Tome, your basic decision is this – to either head North, or South?

Once you go in one direction, it’s hard to get back to the other side. There’s one single road and you’ll end up backtracking because there’s no way to around the island by car.

Capital

If you’re really lazy, then within the capital there’s the Praia Lagarto which is not bad, but you’re much better off driving a bit outside of the city.

North Coast

If you decide North, then you’ll need your own transport of a taxi. Or you can take a long half-a-day walk. Or rent a bicycle from the capital. It’s not always easy to find a beach because the coast if forested and you have to take small roads turning right towards the sea.

Praia Tamarinos. Photo by Karbone

One – the first beaches you’ll encounter are the sandy palm-fringed Praia Micolo, Praia dos Governadores, and  Praia da Juventude huddled together 15kms out of the capital – right next to the Micolo fishing village. Up the road about a kilometer further is Praia dos Tamarinos with lots of sand and playing kids.

Praia das Conchas. Photo by Saotomean Consulate in Marseille

Two – next up is Praia das Conchas 20km or some 30 minutes driving. This is a snorkeling beach, and magnet for expatriates living in Sao Tome e Principe. Here lava tidepools harbor sea creatures, there’s rocky formations under the water, and the water itself is colored like in Lagoa Azul – but there’s also sand, so you might as well stay here. The beach is a small inlet along the northwest coast, maybe one kilometer long in total. The water is clear and calm.

Lagoa Azul. Photo by Isaac Alfonso

Three – the most famous beach by far is Lagoa Azul with magical ambiance and pure, incredibly blue water. There’s no sand here, it’s all lava rock. For nature lovers, this is a great place for birding, with a number of first sights made right here. If you want to see what’s under that magnificent blue water, Club Maxel offers diving expeditions. Also note, that a resort is being built here and there’s talk of making the beach private so be sure to enjoy it before they do.

South Road

If you decide South, you’ll certainly need a rental car or a taxi – there’s no way you’re going to walk to any of these beaches.

Praia Piscina. Photo by Saotomean Consulate in Marseille

One - Praia Piscina (90km) close to Roca Porto Alegre plantation and Jalé Ecologe Resort. Just around the corner from Praia Piscina is a lava cave that opens horizontally to the sea. Lava almost closes off the beach from the sea, but for a small part at far end. With high tide waves start pouring over the lava, and the unprotected beach. In the lava pool water is placid, safe from the violent waves battering the other side of the barrier. However when rough seas surge into the cave, mist is forcefully ejected straight out from the small air space above the water line.

Jalé Ecolodge. Photo by António Sousa

Two – one of the last beaches is Praia Jalé (95km) with pools and an ecolodge. Ecologe is a number of small huts without electricity. In front of the Jalé Ecolodge Resort. Good place to watch sea turtles.

Three – the last Beach – Praia Xixi. The beach at the end of the road is Praia Xixi (100km). There’s a site by Clara with some tips. This is probably the most exclusive beach on the island, and very few people get here.

More Beaches

So that’s our seven favorite beaches – one in the capital, three in the North, three in the South. If you’re more adventurous, there are many unnamed beaches where the coast is not that easily accessible - and even though there’s a beach – you’ll need machete to get there.

While this time we wrote about the island of Sao Tome, if you’re going to Principe, you’ll also encounter are a number of very beautiful beaches – one of which was even used for a Bacardi ad – these we will cover in the future.

Have you been to any beach on Sao Tome e Principe. Or are You planning to? When you do, let us know it the comments.

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Alda Graça do Espírito Santo

Poet and a great exponent of Saotomean nationalism.

The author of “Trinity” and other verses that inspired nationalism in Sao Tome, Alda Graça do Espírito Santo, died. March is the month of women, but this year saw the loss of a great woman. The poet would have been 84 years old on the 30th of April this year.

She wrote the letters of the national anthem and is a reference to the literature of Sao Tome e Principe. She was a member of the transitional government that led the country from 1974 until independence, July 12, 1975. She was also the minister of education and culture, and later the minister of information and culture. Alda Graça was the first woman to be President of the National Assembly of Sao Tome and Principe. She founded and was president of the National Union of Writers and Artists São Tome (UNEAS).

Last year, she was honored twice. First, by the Ministry of Education and Culture in celebration of her 83 years of age. Then, by the Community of Portuguese Speaking Countries. ”I think think this is an exaggeration on your part, because I do not think of myself as a monument. The monument is the people, the monument is the country, the monument is what we want to build. In that sense this vanity is something that is not part of me, “said the poet, in April 2009, when she was honored on the occasion of her 83rd birthday.

“Slain was the river of my town”, is one of many legacies she left to us.

Água Grande

“Lá no “Água Grande” a caminho da roça negritas batem que batem co’a roupa na pedra. Batem e cantam modinhas da terra.

Cantam e riem em riso de mofa histórias contadas, arrastadas pelo vento.

Riem alto de rijo, com a roupa na pedra e põem de branco a roupa lavada.

As crianças brincam e a água canta. Brincam na água felizes… Velam no capim um negrito pequenino.

E os gemidos cantados das negritas lá do rio ficam mudos lá na hora do regresso… Jazem quedos no regresso para a roça.”

Katya Aragao is a Santomean journalist. Her work has been published in Tela Non and Editora Sol. She is also a beloved radio voice at Rádio Jubilar. This special tribute was first published at Editora Sol and as been translated for publication at SaoTomeBlog.

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Fishermen spotting a fish school before throwing the net, on Gamboa beach. Photo by Carlos Alberto Jr.

Today I was on the beach of Gamboa – 10 minutes from the center of São Tomé. There were kids and grownups, but also dogs and pigs. I had never seen a pig taking a swim, but here was one that was taking a bath in the sea. Apart from the pig, there were also fishermen on the sea.

Early Morning

Fishing in Sao Tome and Principe is artisanal. This means fishermen go out to sea several times throughout the day – at night, daybreak, or early morning.

The Fishermen

Each boat in the water carries between six and 12 fishermen. Today they were heading for the vicinity of the Goat Island, Ilhéu das Cabras. One of the men was chosen to dive and identify the fish schools. Then he returned to the surface to tell his companions.

The excitement was great. The navigator fired the engine and began to circulate around the school, while the other fishermen threw the net overboard. After surrounding the fish school, the net was lifted. Sometimes you get a lot of fish. This time nothing.

Fishermen complained about the lack of government support. I wondered why not create a cooperative. They said it is difficult, they need help, and the government does not do what it should. One of them showed an interest in the idea of the cooperative. After five minutes of conversation I devised an entire project – quality fish for export.

Quality Fish for Export

I said they should look for a man they trust, someone who can take the project forward. They asked how to set up a cooperative? I spoke about the Marapa nonprofit which works behind the Embassy of Brazil in Sao Tome, and teaches fish traders to make money with fish parts that used to be thrown in the trash.

The fishermen are inscribed in the course and are given lessons by nutritionists. They learn to make fish sausage, fish pudding. Products from the head, tail and other shares of fish that were previously thrown away. Products with added value. More money in their pocket.

I told this story to the fishermen. I suggested they show up at Marapa, and ask for help. I imagined the creation of a brand in they style of – “fish selected from the warm waters of Praia da Gamboa of Sao Tome and Principe”. I imagined an entire transport scheme, with fish supplying European and American markets.

This is Africa

Fishermen looked at me with that unmistakable look, reserved for another crazy white man come to solve the problems of Sao Tome. I left. And the life of fishermen continued as before, in the waters of the Sao Tome and Principe.

Carlos Alberto Jr. is a journalist for TV Brasil, and in the past years has visited and written about 15 African countries. This story was first published in September 2009 in the Diary of Africa (Diario da Africa).

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Obo National Park. Photo by Maria Cartas.

Over thirty percent of São Tomé is covered by the Obo National Park. Trails lead through old impenetrable virgin woods of the Obo, deep mountain forest covers the steep slopes of the island, and while some tracks follow old roads or railway, others are only someones footsteps.

Larger tracks used to be for the transportation of coffee and cocoa, while the smaller paths seem to surge right out of an age-old African fairy-tale. And all the time you’re surround by the most amazing trees and birds.

Birds

São Tomé is a true ornithologist’s paradise. The islands have one of the highest concentrations of endemic bird species in the world. So far 143 species have been counted. The rare endemic species (i.e species that can only be seen on on São Tomé) include the Principe white-eye, São Tomé short tail, Giant Weaver, São Tomé giant sun bird, Maroon pigeon, Dwarf olive Ibis, São Tomé fiscal shrike, São Tomé Paradise-flycatcher, and finally the endangered (an once even though extinct) São Tomé Grosbeak.

Giant sun-bird. Photo by Alexandra Fonseca.

While you need to be an expert to sight all these incredible species, there’s a great French guide book by Patrice Christy (edited by ECOFAC) called  ”Oiseaux de São Tomé et Principe“. One Portuguese nature photographer, António Guerra, has uploaded a small set of pictures depicting the birdlife of the islands, tagged with species and even location. Also, another good online starting point is this article on FatBirder.

Principe white-eye. Photo by Alexandra Fonseca.

However, the endemic species are just a small taste; there are also hundreds of non-endemic species out there. For example the African masked-weaver (Ploceus velatus), Malachite kingfisher (Alcedo cristata), Black-headed Heron (Ardea melanocephala), and the Laughing dove (Streptopelia senegalensis).

On the way to Pico de São Tomé by Isaac Afonso

Good Birding Locations

Good birding areas in the dense forest in central highlands are around Lagoa Amélia and São João dos Angolares. For lowland forests, the best are São Miguel, Xufexufe and Quija. Drier savannahs are on the north coast between Diogo Nunes and Lagoa Azul.

Conservation

The California Academy of Sciences Herpetologist Robert C. Drewes calls São Tomé and Príncipe a biological gold mine. Drewes talks about the importance of conservation on the islands, and the very high number of endemic species found there. ECOFAC is the local European Union and United Nations sponsored conservation organization, that has set up an ecotourism project in the area.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8YQzAscRC0

Marine Life

Apart from birdlife, Sao Tome is also rich in marine life. Marine biologist and zoologist Artour has a wonderful set of local smaller marine and terrestrial animals from crabs to worms to insects, all with good descriptions and with species names tagged in Latin (see below). And Joaquim Muchaxo and Alexandra Fonseca have a nice group of photos from their trips with various plants, birds, butterflies, insects, and small animals from Sao Tome. Unfortunately in their photos most of the species and locations are untagged.

Never Been Connected to the Continent

The vegetation in São Tome is special indeed. As the island has never been connected to the African mainland, much of its flora is endemic, for a example the São Tomé giant begonia (up to 3 metres high), several orchids and tree ferns. The Guardian reports that UK scientist have found a previously unknown mushroom that resembles a penis. In the Northern coast there are Baobab trees. There’s a great variety of tropical fruits, including green limes, red chilli peppers, goiabas, and many others. The University of Coimbra Herbarium has an overview of some of the plants found here by Renata Alves.

Science Bloggers

We’ve written about Santomean bloggers previously. For further reading, here’s a number of scientists that are blogging about their findings on Sao Tome, including Ricardo Lima, Mariana (in Portuguese), and the California Academy of Sciences.

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Danco Congo. Photo by Secretary of Culture of Brazil

This post part of a series, in which we try to understand the essence of theater in São Tomé e Príncipe.

A lot of music and dancing in Santomean theater, almost to the point that for a moment I thought I was writing an article on Santomean dances – we will see why this is not the case.

There’s quite a number of popular theater pieces in the archipelago, including the Tragedy of Marquis of Mantua and the Emperor Charlemagne, better known as Tchiloli, and Floripes, which is enacted on Principe. But this time we focus on Danco-Congo, which I think is the most colorful.

Danco-Congo

Danço-Congo is a great big show. Mostly enacted on religious holidays, for example during the Gravana Arts Festival every month of August. The full title of the piece is The Tragedy of Captain Congo (Tragédia do Capitão Congo).

There’s a great story to the dance. For me this is the key point what makes Danco-Congo so theatrical. The story is rooted in a Congolese folktale, starting when an old plantation owner dies, leaving the roca (plantation) to his four stupid sons, who quite are inept in managing the farm. Here a clear comparison becomes evident between the sons, and the Angolans, who are depicted as strong and brave. This piece was prohibited by the Portuguese during colonization. I guess they didn’t appreciate their portrayal.

Canal Santola says, this is the most African of all the Santomean dances. Donald Burness says it’s a warrior dance. Caroline S. Shaw says it’s a ritual and a spectacle. Without any academic credentials whatsowever, I say it’s a great piece of theater.

Kids in green outfits taking part of the Danco-Congo. Photo by Tourism Office of Sao Tome and Principe

So What Does it Look Like?

In a nutshell, if you were on Sao Tome in August, you would see a group of about 30 dancers with great big hats.

The dancers are guided by a king, accompanied by drummers, and a number of other colorful characers. Everybody has fitting costumes. Some dancers are on stilts. There are lunatics going crazy. And a dying angel, and also singing angels, all dressed in green colors. Sounds pretty cool, right?

But there’s even more – a wicked sorcerer, his apprendice, and finally the devil himself, who are dressed in bright red dress. The sorcerer is fittingly terrifying!

So this was a introduction to Danco-Congo. If you’re hungry for more, the excellent African Folklore Encyclopedia by Philip M. Peek and Kwesi Yankah, gives a great in depth description – and you can even buy it on Amazon, although at sky high prices, which is why I recommend you come back to SaoTomeBlog for more.

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Café & Compania. Photo by António Sousa

This is the first in a series of posts about Santomean cuisine, and the restaurants where you can enjoy a good meal of Kalulu, accompanied by local Rosema beer.

Pilolo Atomico. Photo by Inna Moody

Cafe & Compania

Probably the most famous place to hang out in Sao Tome is Cafe & Compania. The owner Maria-Joao Pombo has good coffee, sandwiches and the famous Pilolo Atomico (a local ecological answer to Viagra, served as a drink). It’s even got a BBC article by Maimouna Jallow who lived on the islands for a couple of years, and another take on Boise Weekly.

Kalulú de Peixe, a national dish with delicious fresh fish and spinach. Photo by Robert Grant.

In the Capital

Other restaurants in the capital include O Pirata, Bigote, and Esplanada Jasmine (per Chika Umeadi a good place for pizza). Also Os Dois Pinheiros, Paraiso dos Grelhados and Dona Teté. A number of restaurants include Portuguese style cooking. Seafood is widely eaten, including squid, shellfish, wide range of locally caught fish, such as barracuda. Meat is served in small pastries as a snack.

If you read Portuguese, have access to the ingredients, and want to try out your cooking skills, there’s a number of Santomean recipes on Canal Santola.

Outside the City

Outside the city, in Angolares, the best place to eat is Roça Sao João ran by the famous TV Chef and Entrepreneur João Carlos da Silva of Teia D’Arte fame. Adrobat has a great post with pictures from various restaurants and bars around town.

Going Out After

If you feel like going out after a good meal, there are a good number of discos in the capital, including Africana, Kizomba, and Beach Club (part of the Pestana resort, ask for Ricardo the manager who speaks good English). Outside the capital,  you’re best off just asking around if there’s a party somewhere tonight.

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Ilheu das Rolas, one of the places on São Tomé and Príncipe that reviewers recommend. Photo by Maria Cartas

This week I read up on travel reviews, and accounts by tourists who’ve been to São Tomé and Príncipe. In a word: a lot of praise.

Excited Newspapers

English newspapers: the Times, the Guardian; French newspaper the Courrier – everybody loves the chocolate islands. Sarah Monahgan calls Sao Tome a ‘sweet island escape’. Adam Vaitilinham (Rough Guides) says Principe is a paradise island, as does Sandra Costa. French divers Jean-Louis Testori and Jean-Pierre Elophe talk about the tranquility of the island and the clean waters.

Inspired Guidebook

Kathleen Becker, right at the start of her Bradt Guide to Sao Tome describes colorfully how friendly a welcome she received from some local kids.

A Thoughtful Writer

A Portuguese writer, Miguel Sousa Tavares, says that Sao Tome needs to be visited by people who see it as a country of opportunities. In his exact, Portuguese, words:

“S. Tomé e Príncipe precisa (e muito) de ser visitada por gentes que vejam este País como uma terra de oportunidades, onde combater a pobreza dos seus seja entendido como meio de preservar a riqueza natural do arquipélago.”

I would say this loosely translates into an invitation.

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Beth Santos with students at São João school. She's now looking to fund 500 more laptops for kids in São Tomé. Photo by Beth Santos.

This week I found out about the Santomean OLPC project. Chica Umeadi was one of the volunteers who deployed the first XO laptops at the São João school in summer 2009. They want to “revolutionize how children learn through the use of technology”.

First Deployment

One Laptop Per Child (OLPC) volunteers had difficulties in getting the project going for everybody on the islands because they didn’t have enough laptops for everyone as Chika vividly talks about in his blog. Chika is now back in the States, and in response to my email he said: “We have run into financial issues concerning the University of Illinois sponsoring the purchase of extra laptops for the school”. The school needed 600 laptops but only 100 were delivered.

Technical Problems

Another volunteer Michael Stein, a student and photojournalist, blogged about his own difficulties with the  slow Internet connection and intermittent power outages. The connection was too slow for installing collaborative software (the download eventually took 2 days) and the open-source Moodle software was difficult to use.

Kids Very Excited

But in spite of all the troubles, Beth Santos who flew in as a teacher for the school in October 2009, writes passionately about her students who are now emailing her. She found that children who had never used computers before were able to do word processing, take pictures and videos, and browse the Internet just after the first class session. There’s some cute pictures from the Sao Joao School. In her blog she’s now trying to find funding for the missing 500 laptops for Santomean kids.

More Photos and Links

Here’s a slideshow of Beth working with the kids in Sao Tome.

Michael Stein’s pictures.

Here’s some more pictures from Corey Jackson, who was the leader of the first volunteers, and got the OLPC on the islands going.

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Sao Tome Architecture blog by Neco Bragança

This is a roundup of all the bloggers I’ve found that blog about Sao Tome & Principe. This is the full list including inactive blogs (noted). Most of the are in Portuguese (the ones dealing with the OLPC project are in English). If your blog is missing, get in touch with me, and I’ll see about adding you to the list.

People Blogging About São Tomé and Príncipe

OLPC Project

Blogs written about the OLPC Project in summer 2009 by Chika Umeadi, Michael Stein, Martin Wolske, and more recently by Beth Santos, have been the most active. These are the only English-language blogs about the islands apart from the scientist Robert Drewes and our own SaoTomeBlog.

Architecture

There’s a single blog about architecture, written by Neco Bragança (this is certainly an area which I’d like to read about more) – unfortunately inactive.

Development and Society

Blogs dealing with development and societal issues are the most numerous, including Kiluange Tiny, Wilson Bragança, Bilaine Ceita, and Eduardo Galeano – all of these blogs haven’t been updated for a while.

Journalism

Henrique Vasconcellos, one of the Portuguese journalists working on the islands, blogs actively and uploads his reports on YouTube.

Science & Conservation

As São Tomé e Príncipe is so biodiverse, it has attracted a number of scientists to work there, including Brigida Rocha Brito, Robert Drewes, Ricardo Lima, and Mariana Fruitdove. Finally, scientists from the Lisbon Oceanarium, Cláudia Delgado and Nuno Loreiro, write about the endangered tortoises and their efforts to protect the species.

Personal

Personal blogs that I’ve found include Camilla Sá Freire, Jota Taborda, and Arcadio da Silva

Art

While there are a number of artists on the islands only Kwame Sousa and the Teia D’Arte gallery have blogs, both which have not been updated for a while.

History and Tradition

Blogs written by Marta Gomes and André Freitas include articles of Santomean history and tradition.

Last updated March 26, 2010.

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The existence of the Apple-banana (banana-maçã) was a recent big shock for me. Photo by Robert Grant

I was inspired to start writing this blog by a few people I met in Lisbon. This is my first real attempt (with consistent updates and everything) at writing a blog so we’ll see how it goes. I am sure we will improve things with time.

Africa is Changing

When I heard that 2009 is the year when many countries in Africa get high-speed Internet my mind was set to start writing on one of the African countries. São Tomé and Príncipe seemed like a good choice because of its tiny size; and I already had some contacts there. The irony is STP isn’t even one of the countries getting broadband.

Didn’t Known Much

There wasn’t much I knew about Africa before starting this blog. I remembered most of the countries and their capitals from geography class. I’d read about the Nigerian oil troubles from National Geographic Magazine. I had heard about some civil wars, displacement in Somalia and about the separate state of Somaliland that seems to be doing alright.

I’d heard about Robert Mugabe of Zimbabwe and read the story of the whites evicted from their farms and what followed. I’d heard about the apartheid in South Africa and the long prison sentence of Nelson Mandela. I’d seen images of Rwanda and films about the Rwandan genocide. I was surprised when I saw current pictures of the capital and read how well off it was. The land of thousand hills.

BBC World Have Your Say

I’d listened to Africa today and This Week in Africa on the BBC. Also some radio documentaries had touched on various parts of the continent. I’d heard a few documentaries from ABC (in Australia) and CBC (in Canada). I’d heard about the baobab trees from a radio commentator in Estonian Radio. But to be fair most of my information about Africa had come from World Have Your Say or as it’s known by many WHYS also on the BBC. The BBC had been my main information about Africa.

The Future

But I had never heard of Sao Tome & Principe. This blog is an attempt to summarize my readings on the country, and also to create a community of people interested in the islands. (For my previous African research, please see Africa on YouTube.)

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Estonia and Sao Tome e Principe signing diplomatic relations. Photo by Estonian Ministry of Foreign Affairs

Ambassador Mart Tarmak and Ambassador Alda Alves de Melo signed diplomatic relations between Estonia and Sao Tome and Principe in May 2009. Tarmak said Sao Tome would make a good tourist destination for Estonians.

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